How This All Works
How This All Works
Commissioning Information
Here you’ll find a quick summary of how to commission a portrait from your photos, followed by some information on what kind of photos I need to work from and how the whole process works
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A quick summary – how the process works.
1. First, have a read through this page which will give you information on choosing a medium and a suitable size for your portrait, and how to take a good photo for me to work from. Then please contact me by phone or email if you need a quote, or have any questions. If you decide to go ahead and commission a portrait, we can have a chat about exactly what you’d like your portrait to appear like in terms of style, background and so on. If you’re not sure what kind of pose will work or what size it should be, I’m happy to give advice. You can also look in the galleries and let me know if any of the portraits there are in a style you particularly prefer.
2 Take or scan photos for the portrait. I need an image that is a good close up. The larger, sharper and clearer the photo reference I have, the better the final portrait will be (you can read more about what sort of photo I need to work from below) When you are ready, contact me here and we’ll have a discussion regarding the portrait. Sometimes it can take several conversations (via email) to determine the photo(s) to be used for the job. The time is worth the effort, so be patient and understanding. There is a 25% non-refundable deposit required for all jobs. See the pricing page for details.
3. The portrait should be a real collaboration, and communication between us is key to the whole process. So when I think that it might be nearly finished, I will take a shot of the portrait and send it to you by email, or by snailmail if you don’t have an email address . You can let me know what you think of the likeness, and whether there’s anything you’d like me to alter or to work on some more. I’ll make any adjustments that we may discuss, and when you are completely happy you can send through the payment and I’ll send your painting or drawing straight out to you.
Choosing your Medium
The different options are acrylic on canvas, pencil, and pen and ink. This will give you more information on my techniques for using each medium and the different effects created. Obviously there’s a cost and also a time consideration – pencil portraits are the quickest for me to complete. Pen and ink take longer, and painting in color on canvas takes the longest because of working with color and are the most expensive option. If commissioning a painting rather than a drawing, please bear in mind that I’m not usually able to complete these at very short notice!
Size and Format
The prices page gives you costs for a variety of standard sizes for portraits in acrylic, pencil, or pen and ink. I find that in general a smaller size of 11″ x 14″ is usually a good size for a single subjector a couple, especially a child. A good general rule of thumb is that unless you want a really large "statement" piece, a child's portrait looks best when the head is represented no larger than it actually is. For an adult then the larger size may suit better.If you want a three quater or full body portrait, then a larger size may be more suitable. See the pricing page for full details.
What Sort of Photo I Prefer to Work From?
We tend to take most of our photos on our phones these days, and I am no exception – they are just so handy. However a phone picture isn’t large or sharp enough to provide the tonal detail I need to work from so if you don’t have any suitable photos taken on a proper camera, then I’m likely to ask you to take some new ones. (Please note that photos downloaded from Facebook are always unsuitable too) You don’t need any photography skills (I certainly don’t have any!) and you don’t even need to have a particularly good camera – even the cheapest ‘point-and-snap’ digital camera will take much larger and sharper photos than even the latest iPhone. The photo I work from is a substitute for someone actually sitting in front of me as I paint and draw them, which is why it’s so important that it records lots of close-up detail in order for me to get a good likeness – I will zoom in on the image on my computer to see it as closely as I can. Trying to do a portrait of someone from a small, blurry or pixilated photograph is a bit like trying to paint or draw someone who’s standing a long way away from me!
Above you can see examples of what would make good reference for a portrait. It is zoomed in on the subject and in light. School photos are great (you can usually ask the photographer to send you the file) or of course you may have had a professional photoshoot done with your baby or little one. For an adult, a work photo can be good. Photos downloaded from Facebook are never suitable as they are much too small and pixelated. Here’s a quick checklist for having your own photoshoot:
✔︎ Natural light is best – artificial light often produces a grainy image, so aim for daylight in open shade.
✔︎ Taking photos out of doors is good, but avoid direct sunlight which will produce strong shadows and also tends to make people squint.
✔︎ For a child, get down to their level, and for a pet, remember to remove the collar if you’d prefer it not to be included.
✔︎ Unless you are having a full body portrait then don’t be afraid to really zoom in – I don’t need to see further down than the chest and the closer up on the face, the better. Just remember not to cut off the top of their head.
✔︎ Don’t worry about the background unless it is integral to the finished piece
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Taking Photos of Children
I know it isn’t easy to get them to pose and they quickly tire of co-operating. My advice would be that if you don’t get lucky with a nice photo right away, just to keep your phone ready for a few days and keep on snapping. Try to catch them when they aren’t prepared – you can sometimes get some really natural pictures that way. Use the largest MP (Megapixel) setting try to not use flash for more natural look. The quality of the photograph really has a huge effect on the final portrait. It is well worth the effort. Once you’ve taken some pics, I’m willing to share my thoughts on which will make the best portrait if you aren’t sure. If you already have a photo in mind, feel free to email it to me and I can let you know if it will work. If you only have a hard (printed) copy of a reference photo you can scan it at least at 300 dpi or have it scanned.
How I Work
In order to get a good likeness of a subject that I haven’t met, I like to use the best or preferred photo as the main reference. I also try to capture their essence as much as I can so it is helpful to have more pictures to get a feel for their appearance and personality. These do not have to be the best quality. They are useful primarily as a reference. So feel free to send a few extras if you like.
What I Can Change
I can do the following:
Fix the hair a little, remove temporary blemishes (acne, scratch or scrape), smooth down a collar, etc. In fact I will probably do these without you asking unless otherwise specified. It is possible to make small changes to what they are wearing. What I don’t do is things like taking a head from one photo and putting it onto a body from another, giving them new clothes, or changing an expression. I can slightly turn up the corners of someone’s mouth, but I can’t turn a solemn expression into a smile, and maintaining an acceptable likeness at the same time. Before I begin, consider whether or not the pic you’ve chosen represents the subject as you’d like. If you wait until I’ve nearly finished to ask me alter something like their hairstyle or clothing, it will incur an additional charge. Consider your choice carefully.
I can assemble two subjects on the same page, drawn from two different photos. However; it is difficult but not impossible. This usually works best if I do a black and white drawing, either pencil or pen and ink, to get a satisfactory portrait.
Portrait Pose
Consider what type of portrait you are looking for. Who is it for? Where is likely to be displayed?
For example, for a child's portrait. While a front-facing, smiling portrait can be OK (and will reflect the personality of a happy child) but you can also get a more personal and artistic portrait from candid photos. Sometimes a more natural look works in capturing them in their daily activities. It really depends on what you want.
Is the portrait for yourself or is it for a friend or family member?
Is it going in special location and how prominently (or not) will it be displayed?
Communication
This is the key to a good portrait, especially from a pic. You are more familiar with the subject than I am. Your input is integral to being satisfied with your portrait. When it seems to me to be near completion I’ll send you a shot of your portrait and email to you for feedback. We can discuss any minor changes you would like made. I prefer not to send an image TOO early due to my process.
Packaging
Once you have approved your portrait by email, I will send you an invoice. You will find how to pay on the pricing page. Once your payment has cleared your portrait will be sent to you. If you are in the USA I use USPS (United States Postal Service) for smaller portraits or FEDEX courier for larger portraits. These are fully tracked services requiring a signature. You will receive a tracking number to let you know when to expect delivery. International orders are sent via FEDEX. Pencil portraits will first be sprayed with fixative spray to stop the graphite from smearing when you handle them. Your portrait will be fully insured in transit and I guarantee its safe arrival.
